"Dirty Looks," the latest exhibition at London's Barbican Art Gallery, presents a provocative exploration of the concept of dirt in fashion. The show, which is on view through January 25, 2026, examines how dirty has become a shorthand for transgressing polished aesthetics and dismantling impeccable craftsmanship. By grouping together over 60 designers or design houses, the exhibition aims to illustrate the various ways in which dirt can be interpreted as a means of challenging societal norms.
The show opens with a striking display of two pairs of Wellington boots, one belonging to Kate Moss and the other to Queen Elizabeth II, symbolizing the juxtaposition between high and low culture. However, the mise-en-scène is somewhat let down by pale draped sheets serving as an unremarkable backdrop on the lower levels of the gallery.
The exhibition also features a range of garments that incorporate bodily fluids and organic matter, including Di Petsa's underwear with menstrual blood stains and Alice Potts' biocouture collection featuring human sweat transformed into crystals. These works serve as a commentary on the taboos surrounding bodily functions in fashion.
In addition to these aesthetic interpretations, the show also delves into the symbolic meaning of dirt as the burden of a wasteful industry, particularly one that is notoriously polluting. Some designers attempt to remix discarded clothes, while others repurpose and recycle objects into garments. However, many of these efforts result in dubious wearability.
The exhibition's most poetic and innovative contribution comes from Hussein Chalayan, who featured garments buried for months in his friend's London backyard 22 years ago. His work serves as a powerful commentary on the relationship between fashion, nature, and waste.
Ultimately, "Dirty Looks" is an exhibition that challenges viewers to reconsider their attitudes towards dirt and its role in fashion. By exploring the various ways in which dirt can be interpreted, the show offers a thought-provoking commentary on our society's values and norms. As one exits the gallery, the perfect soundtrack for the experience is Christina Aguilera's "Dirrty."
The show opens with a striking display of two pairs of Wellington boots, one belonging to Kate Moss and the other to Queen Elizabeth II, symbolizing the juxtaposition between high and low culture. However, the mise-en-scène is somewhat let down by pale draped sheets serving as an unremarkable backdrop on the lower levels of the gallery.
The exhibition also features a range of garments that incorporate bodily fluids and organic matter, including Di Petsa's underwear with menstrual blood stains and Alice Potts' biocouture collection featuring human sweat transformed into crystals. These works serve as a commentary on the taboos surrounding bodily functions in fashion.
In addition to these aesthetic interpretations, the show also delves into the symbolic meaning of dirt as the burden of a wasteful industry, particularly one that is notoriously polluting. Some designers attempt to remix discarded clothes, while others repurpose and recycle objects into garments. However, many of these efforts result in dubious wearability.
The exhibition's most poetic and innovative contribution comes from Hussein Chalayan, who featured garments buried for months in his friend's London backyard 22 years ago. His work serves as a powerful commentary on the relationship between fashion, nature, and waste.
Ultimately, "Dirty Looks" is an exhibition that challenges viewers to reconsider their attitudes towards dirt and its role in fashion. By exploring the various ways in which dirt can be interpreted, the show offers a thought-provoking commentary on our society's values and norms. As one exits the gallery, the perfect soundtrack for the experience is Christina Aguilera's "Dirrty."
. And those Wellington boots? Iconic! Kate Moss vs Queen Elizabeth II - it's like the ultimate fashion showdown 
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. Like, Di Petsa's underwear with menstrual blood stains? Not sure if I'd wanna wear that to a party 
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. Burying his designs in a London backyard for months? Mind blown! It's like he's saying, "Hey, fashion can be just as wasteful as the rest of our society"... & I'm HERE. FOR. IT 
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apparently ther was some drama behind the scenes abt the curators & they had to fight 2 get kate moss involved 
anyway, u gotta check out hussein chalayan's piece its literally mindblowing 
its like fashion meets nature & waste management all in one 
I mean, this exhibition sounds like it's trying to make some bold statements about fashion and dirt, but honestly, some of those outfits with bodily fluids just feel like a weird attention grabber 
. And don't even get me started on the Wellington boots display - I get what they're trying to say, but couldn't they've done something more visually striking? Like, it feels like we're being forced to see two ends of the fashion spectrum without any real connection between them. The Hussein Chalayan piece is where it's at for me though 
! The way they've curated all these different designers together to show how dirt can be a symbol of challengein' societal norms is, like, really thought-provoking. I mean, who would've thought that dirty could be seen as a way to take down polished aesthetics? It's crazy to see how some designers are incorporatin' bodily fluids and organic matter into their work - it's like, a total commentary on our society's obsession with appearances.
. I mean, pale draped sheets just don't do it for me. But, overall, the show is really well-done and offers a lot to think about. I loved seein' how some designers are tryin' to remix and recycle old clothes, but also saw how that sometimes results in garments that are kinda dubious wearability 
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It's like, we're livin in a world where perfection is everything, but this show is all about embracin' the imperfect and impermanent. And omg those garments with bodily fluids and organic matter? 
I need to see more of that ASAP! 
The way they use waste as a material is so inspiring, it's like, we can make fashion from trash?! Genius! 
Christina Aguilera's "Dirrty" soundtrack is EVERYTHING, btw 
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... but overall, I think "Dirty Looks" is an exhibition that'll leave you feeling kinda uncomfortable and more than a little inspired 
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, and I love how the show challenges our perceptions of dirt in fashion. Like, who knew that bodily fluids could be a thing? 
. Maybe I'd have liked more interactive elements or something to make it more immersive but overall, it's a thought-provoking show that'll leave you thinking 
anyway, the part with Hussein Chalayan's buried clothes is pretty cool, i can see why that would be powerful. the only thing that bugged me was the backdrop - it just seemed so plain and boring 
i mean kate moss and queen elizabeth ii sharing the same pair of wellington boots is like, what? 
but honestly the most cool part was hussein chalayan's stuff - burying clothes in his friend's backyard for months? that's just genius 
its like he's saying 'hey, fashion industry, get over yourself and your waste' 
i'm still thinking about those crystal-covered sweat outfits though... would never wear them myself but props to alice potts 
. We're still stuck in a cycle of fast fashion and exploitation, and this exhibition barely scratches that surface... 
anyhoo, its def worth a visit if u want to see the future of fashion go down in flames 