For centuries, Europe's northern wilderness was home to a thriving indigenous culture that suffered under the weight of repression and abuse before being hastily co-opted into festive holiday clichés. The Sami people have long herded reindeer in Sweden's vast, snow-covered expanse – an endeavor fraught with danger, especially during calving season when predators roam free.
Reindeer meat is a prized commodity across Scandinavia, and the harsh realities of modern reindeer herding mean the use of any available tools. The younger of two men, Elvjin, oversees a herd belonging to the entire community of Grövelsjön village in western Sweden – a cooperative ownership system that's both practical and necessary given the economic pressures on most Sami families.
As we set out across the snow-covered hilltops, Peter scans the surrounding countryside with binoculars, eventually spotting reindeer making their way towards us. The job is grueling work, not just for the men but also for the reindeer themselves, which get a special diet to encourage them to stay within designated areas.
The reindeer herding business has its environmental drawbacks – wildlife concerns, predator control measures that are contentious, and the need to monitor and manage large numbers of animals. However, Peter and his wife Helena aim to showcase an authentic side of Sami culture by opening their tipis to tourists, who can experience the traditional way of life for themselves.
At a wooden cabin near one of the reindeer herds, we enjoy a homemade meal cooked over an old-fashioned range – a hearty, meaty feast that leaves us in no doubt about Peter's passion for his work. We drink strong coffee and chat long into the evening, exchanging stories and laughter as the night wears on.
The next day, we visit Thomas, who looks after a small herd of semi-domesticated reindeer that help encourage the main group to be less wary of humans. The animals gather around us as we walk with them through the forest, eventually settling down by a fire for some coffee and a snack. It's a heartwarming moment – one that leaves an indelible impression on our journey.
For the writer, this Sami tipi stay has been a deeply enriching experience, giving insight into modern and ancient ways of life. As the night wears on, and we settle in by the fire, the stars twinkling above like diamonds scattered across a midnight sky – it's an unforgettable moment that leaves us feeling privileged to have experienced such a unique side of Swedish culture.
Reindeer meat is a prized commodity across Scandinavia, and the harsh realities of modern reindeer herding mean the use of any available tools. The younger of two men, Elvjin, oversees a herd belonging to the entire community of Grövelsjön village in western Sweden – a cooperative ownership system that's both practical and necessary given the economic pressures on most Sami families.
As we set out across the snow-covered hilltops, Peter scans the surrounding countryside with binoculars, eventually spotting reindeer making their way towards us. The job is grueling work, not just for the men but also for the reindeer themselves, which get a special diet to encourage them to stay within designated areas.
The reindeer herding business has its environmental drawbacks – wildlife concerns, predator control measures that are contentious, and the need to monitor and manage large numbers of animals. However, Peter and his wife Helena aim to showcase an authentic side of Sami culture by opening their tipis to tourists, who can experience the traditional way of life for themselves.
At a wooden cabin near one of the reindeer herds, we enjoy a homemade meal cooked over an old-fashioned range – a hearty, meaty feast that leaves us in no doubt about Peter's passion for his work. We drink strong coffee and chat long into the evening, exchanging stories and laughter as the night wears on.
The next day, we visit Thomas, who looks after a small herd of semi-domesticated reindeer that help encourage the main group to be less wary of humans. The animals gather around us as we walk with them through the forest, eventually settling down by a fire for some coffee and a snack. It's a heartwarming moment – one that leaves an indelible impression on our journey.
For the writer, this Sami tipi stay has been a deeply enriching experience, giving insight into modern and ancient ways of life. As the night wears on, and we settle in by the fire, the stars twinkling above like diamonds scattered across a midnight sky – it's an unforgettable moment that leaves us feeling privileged to have experienced such a unique side of Swedish culture.