At Box 37 in Testaccio Market, Leonardo Cioni's Sicché Roba Toscana kitchen is a culinary haven where traditional Tuscan flavors reign supreme. Amidst the aroma of slow-cooked meats and steaming vegetables, visitors are drawn to the blackboard menu, where lampredotto, torta di ceci, and ragu di capocollo stand out as daily specials.
It was the irresistible scent of ragu di capocollo that caught my attention, and I couldn't resist returning an hour later with a friend to sample this dish. The result was nothing short of spectacular – dense, succulent, and boasting a rich, oily halo, it arrived on small potato gnocchi that had been cooked to perfection.
So what makes Leo's ragu stand out? For starters, the chef uses minced capocollo, rather than braising an entire joint before shredding the meat. This approach yields a superior texture that adds depth and complexity to the dish. The addition of three powerful herbs – bay, sage, and rosemary – further elevates the ragu's character, while the generous amount of fat from the marbled capocollo ensures that each bite is tender and unctuous.
To recreate Leo's recipe at home, start by frying minced pork in olive oil until it loses all its pinkness. Add diced onion, bay leaves, sage, minced rosemary, and a pinch of salt to the pan, then cook until the onion is translucent. Next, add white wine, tinned tomatoes, tomato concentrate, and warm water, stirring frequently as you simmer the ragu gently for two hours.
As the sauce thickens and reduces, it develops a rich, velvety consistency that coats the tongue and leaves you craving more. Serve the ragu over cooked gnocchi or pasta, topped with grated parmesan cheese for an experience that's sure to satisfy even the most discerning palates.
It was the irresistible scent of ragu di capocollo that caught my attention, and I couldn't resist returning an hour later with a friend to sample this dish. The result was nothing short of spectacular – dense, succulent, and boasting a rich, oily halo, it arrived on small potato gnocchi that had been cooked to perfection.
So what makes Leo's ragu stand out? For starters, the chef uses minced capocollo, rather than braising an entire joint before shredding the meat. This approach yields a superior texture that adds depth and complexity to the dish. The addition of three powerful herbs – bay, sage, and rosemary – further elevates the ragu's character, while the generous amount of fat from the marbled capocollo ensures that each bite is tender and unctuous.
To recreate Leo's recipe at home, start by frying minced pork in olive oil until it loses all its pinkness. Add diced onion, bay leaves, sage, minced rosemary, and a pinch of salt to the pan, then cook until the onion is translucent. Next, add white wine, tinned tomatoes, tomato concentrate, and warm water, stirring frequently as you simmer the ragu gently for two hours.
As the sauce thickens and reduces, it develops a rich, velvety consistency that coats the tongue and leaves you craving more. Serve the ragu over cooked gnocchi or pasta, topped with grated parmesan cheese for an experience that's sure to satisfy even the most discerning palates.